September 2007 News and Tips

The Remodel Guidance "Construction Chronicles" is a bi-monthy newsletter which features and celebrates successful projects, gives tips to navigating the construction process, and keeps readers updated on the latest news and events. Rest assured that your email address will not be sold or traded, nor used for spam purposes. If you wish to discontinue receipt of this newsletter, simply send an email to unsubscribe@remodelguidance.com. If you did not receive this email correctly, or would like to see past issues, simply follow this link.

Contents

1. Project Report: Looking Good - A San Rafael Addition is "Out of the Ground", My Vintage Green Cottage, Part 1 - Solar Water Heating
2. Tips: The Path To A Building Permit
3. Green Building: Indoor Water Savings, Efficient Hot Water, Direct Vent is Best, The Embodied Energy of Location
4. About Remodel Guidance
5. Meet the Designer
6. News & Upcoming Events: Federal and State Solar Incentives - California to Offer Solar Thermal Rebates, Upcoming Classes in Marin, San Francisco and Sonoma Counties
7. In the Works: Projects appearing in future issues
8. Contact Us

Our March 2007 edition showcased an nice addition in San Rafael (see "A Glorious San Rafael Addition Clears Design Review," RGCC March 2007). At that point the project had just cleared the planning department (usually the most difficult hurdle, see "Tips: The Path To A Building Permit," below.) After that, structural drawings and additional architectural details were required to pass "plan check" by the building department, at which point a building permit was issued. The the fun began...

The homeowner, Drew Radachy, is acting as his own general contractor. For the foundation and framing work, he chose the services of a builder we referred, Brian Staley. The foundation for this project is quite involved, due to the proximity of a redwood tree to the building, a sloped lot and the interface to the existing house. We advised Drew of this beforehand, and he wisely recognized that getting the foundation correct was crucial to this project's success. Fortunately, Brian and his crew were up to the job. With the foundation complete, they are now turning their attention to framing, with the goal of having the building "closed in" before the rainy season.

We will save most of the details for the completed project report, but for now we'll just offer our encouragement and a photo of the work in progess on the path...

From This: House Before

To This: House After

The Completed Foundation

Last issue (see "The Summer of the Second Unit," RGCC September 2007) we described three second unit projects we've gotten approved, one of which is under construction. The small scale of this project (320 SF) and the availability of an earnest and underpaid (make that "volunteer!" - ed.) workforce make this house an ideal laboratory for green building. We also want to spread the word that green building is not wed to a particular architectural style - it's good practice and practical for all homes, even those with vintage charm. Accordingly, we will detail the various green features of this cottage in upcoming issues. In this issue, we'll begin by describing the solar water heating system - a convenient segue to "Energy Efficiency: Efficient Hot Water," below.

A common issue with small houses such as second units is lack of space for a water heater tank. The typical solution to this problem is a tankless "on demand" water heater. Indeed, despite less than optimum circumstances, that was the intended system for this project. After a lecture by, and a consultation with, Josh Plaisted of Kineo Design Group, we were convinced that a simple solar system could not only supplement, but actually replace, the tankless heater.

The "typical" solar water heater system consists of a ground-level storage tank, roof-mounted collector(s) and electronics and pumps to transfer heat from the collector panel to the tank when the sun is out. The system we chose is simpler and entirely roof-mounted, which solved the limited space dilemma better than a tankless heater could.

Tankless Water Heater Because of the location of the second unit and the other buildings on the lot, the only place the water heater could be installed was close to a bedroom and the hot tub of the primary residence. While this location meets safety requirements and building codes, the water heater was unsightly and likely to be intrusively noisy.	Solar Water Heater The solar system which replaced the tankless water heater has all of its components on the roof of the cottage, save the controls, which are concealed behind an access panel in the wall (not yet painted to match the building.) The noise, the visual, and the exhaust of the tankless water heater have been eliminated, AND the system uses the sun for the bulk of the water heating!!!	The Controls The controls for this system consist of shut-off and drain valves, a thermometer, a tempering valve to prevent dangerously hot water reaching the home, and a timer (still in box) to turn the back-up electric heating element on and off to lower standby heating losses. The pipes have not yet been insulated, nor has the insulation been installed on the interior of this opening.

The Solar Water Heater

This "Thermosiphon" solar water heater consists of a well-insulated, roof-mounted, 40 gallon water tank with a single solar collector beneath it. It uses no pumps - the heat of the sun drives food-grade antifreeze in the collector up through a heat exchanger in the tank, and the pressure of the cold water supply sends hot water to the home. The silver pipes are copper plumbing, insulated with foam and wrapped with foil tape to protect it from the sun. (The square "panel" to the left of the solar system is a skylight.)

Q: Why doesn't everyone have a solar water heater?

A: We think that's a great question, and we hope (and expect) to see more and more. There are issues with it, however:

1. Solar Exposure
   It sounds obvious, but for the system to work well, it needs good exposure to the sun. The ideal location has sun on it from 9:00 AM to 3 PM each day of the year. Adjacent buildings and trees should be checked for possible winter shading. Weather patterns are important too - locations with a higher percentage of foggy or cloudy days offer less solar energy potential than areas with clearer skies.

2. Orientation
   The "perfect" orientation is facing due South - "true" South, not magnetic South (the discrepancy, or "magnetic declination," varies across the country, with longitude.) In the case of this project, the roof ridge is oriented roughly North-South, so the practical placement of the collector was facing either "East" or "West." The roof ridge is oriented 24° East of Magnetic North, so the "East" roof face faces 24° South of East. When combined with the fact that "true" South in our area is actually 17° East of magnetic South, the collector faces about 49° East of South. (It is generally accepted that any orientation within 45° of true South is equally effective and orientations up to 90° from true South can be used with larger collector area.) In addition, our "East" exposure starts getting sun on it early in the morning, which is closer to when the bulk of hot water is typically required.

3. Collector Tilt
   The "perfect" tilt for a collector optimizes the collector for winter sun. In the Northern hemisphere, that means a tilt roughly equal to the latitude plus 15°. In the San Francisco Bay area (latitude ~48°), that means a tilt of 63°, well beyond this roof's 17.35° ("3.75 in 12") pitch. Again, however, architectural considerations can trump peak solar efficiency. As the installation manual for the solar system states:

   "For aesthetic reasons it remains a common practice to flush mount the SunSiphon if the roof is pitched from 4/12 to 7/15 (18.4° and 30.3° slope, respectively), regardless of your latitude. The appearance of the SunSiphon system on your roof is a very important installation consideration... There may be some trade-offs in the performance vs. appearance equation, but we find that most homeowner's are willing to give up a few BTU's each year in order to have an attractive, low profile installation."

   The manufacturer recommends larger or additional collectors to make up for any performance loss.

4. Appearance
   This is "the" big issue with thermosiphon solar systems. While most people find the collector's appearance acceptable (looks a lot like a skylight, as you can see in the photo above), the "tank on the roof" can be off-putting. In the case of this cottage, we felt that the visual benefits to the inhabitants of the property and the space savings trump the impact on passers-by, and the system isn't all that imposing anyhow, as you can see by the photographs below. (Besides, we consider a solar system to be a "badge of honor!" -ed.)

   East View from Street	South View from Street	West View from Street

   If the building has an attic, the tank can be mounted there, provided the collector is below it. If it is desirable to mount the tank below the collector(s), there are a number of other solar system designs which use electric pumps to circulate the heating fluid.

5. Structural
   A tank full of water can be pretty heavy (a 40 gallon tank weighs in at 522.49 pounds.) It is crucial that the roof can withstand this load. Consultation with a structural engineer is a good idea, both for new construction and retrofits.

6. Cost
   Obviously, if solar water heating were cheaper than conventional methods, it would be commonplace. The relatively low cost of fossil fuels and fossil-fuel powered water heaters (at least economically) tends to make solar water heating a failure for domestic hot water when subjected to pure cost/benefit analysis. Nonetheless, many people decide that "doing the right thing" has some value to them, and a solar system is a way of "hedging one's bet" against future energy price increases. Solar water heating systems last in the neighborhood of 20 years, trading higher up-front costs for lower costs of operation. Furthermore, there are tax incentives (federal and some states, California recently included - see "News & Upcoming Events," below) which can offset the installation costs. In this specific case, the system cost about $3000. When a 30% federal tax credit is deducted, however, it brings the cost to about $2000, vs. roughly $1000 for a tankless system. Twice as much, true, but a relatively small percentage of the overall project cost and much better for the environment (and much more fun to right about! -ed.) Note that if the property has a heated pool and/or a hot tub the "payback" on a solar thermal system is much faster, to the point of making it a "no brainer." If the system can provide some of the space heating, it is also more economically rewarding.

7. Performance
   The big problem with solar is that you need it most when there's no sun!!! It is likely that this system will provide more than enough hot water in Summer months but will require backup heating in the Winter. The tank comes equipped with an electric heating element, which we chose to use for cost reasons, as well as to eliminate the tankless gas water heater. The problem is that electric water heating is expensive economically and environmentally, so some of the benefits of solar are lost when the electric backup heater is used.

   This can be addressed in part by tailoring hot water use to the sun - using the most hot water in the late morning and early afternoon when the solar system is operating at its peak due to the available sunshine. The system is also more effective when hot water use is spread more evenly over the week. For example, instead of washing seven loads of clothes in a single day, washing one load each day will reduce the amount of backup energy required. Likewise, the timer which controls the heating element can be set to turn off in the middle of the night and come on later in the morning, to minimize standby heat loss and offer the sun a chance to warm the tank in the morning before the backup element is reactivated.

   Thermosiphon water heaters are simpler than pumped versions, but also less efficient, especially when the water gets hotter. For the size of this house and the likely hot water needs, however, this solar system should be more than sufficient and is about as elaborate, large and expensive as is practical for the application. The main house is destined to have a much larger "drainback" solar thermal system which will heat the domestic hot water and the hot tub and provide part of the space heating. We'll cover that in a future issue.

We'll measure and report on the actual performance of the system in the future, after the cottage is occupied. Before that, watch future issues of "the Chronicles" for additional green features of this cottage, including high performance insulation, indoor air quality and, yes, efficiency-enhanced antique single pane windows.

2. Tips: The Path To A Building Permit

At Remodel Guidance we consider the zoning regulations an integral part of the design process. We're good at understanding and navigating the regulations and use them as a basis for deciding the scale and scope of a project. The regulations do not direct our designs, but they do inform them. Proceeding otherwise, in our opinion, is risky, and often results in unnecessary extra costs, delays, unplanned compromises and disappointment - we prefer our clients happy and satisfied. If you're embarking on a design project with a designer or architect who is not informed of the "rules of the game," be very concerned. You may very well learn these rules by trial and error, and that's an unhappy proposition.

We begin every client relationship with a no-obligation consultation which includes a thorough, yet concise summary and discussion of the regulations involved. Once we have that stuff sorted out, we get to the "fun stuff" - helping our clients realize their dreams in the most cost-effective manner possible. If you'd like our input on a project you're considering, or help with problems for one you're currently involved in, please feel free to contact us at 415-258-4501 or email info@remodelguidance.com. We also offer workshops on the permit process, green building and more. See "News & Upcoming Events," below.

3. Green Building

1. Resource Conservation: Indoor Water Savings

   Last issue (see "Resource Conservation: Save Water, Look to the Landscaping," RGCC July 2007) we discussed techniques and strategies for saving water outdoors. While we use the bulk of our water outdoors (roughly 71% on average), there are considerable savings to be had indoors too, and opportunities which can save energy as well (see "Energy Efficiency: Efficient Hot Water", below.)

   According to The American Water Works Association, daily indoor per capita water use in the typical single family home is 69.3 gallons. According to 2006 census figures, there were 36,457,549 people in California, and 31.4% of all housing units were multi-family, leaving 68.6% of households as single family - roughly 25 million people living in single family homes. This means about 1.7 billion gallons per day are used indoors in single family homes. Indoor water use is broken down as follows:

   Use	Gallons per Capita	Percentage of Total Daily Use	Daily Gallons Statewide*
   Toilets	18.5	26.7%	462,500,000
   Clothes Washers	15.0	21.7%	375,000,000
   Showers	11.6	16.8%	290,000,000
   Faucets	10.9	15.7%	272,500,000
   Leaks	9.5	13.7%	237,500,000
   Other Domestic Uses	1.6	2.2%	40,000,000
   Baths	1.2	1.7%	30,000,000
   Dishwashers	1.0	1.4%	25,000,000
   Total	69.3	99.9%	1,757,500,000

   
   *Assuming 25 million people, as estimated above.

   It is estimated that with more efficient water fixtures and regular leak detection and repair, households can reduce daily per capita water use by about 35% to about 45.3 gallons per day.

   Here's how this breaks down for households using conservation measures:

   Use	Gallons per Capita	Percentage of Total Daily Use	Daily Savings per Capita	Daily Gallons Saved Statewide*
   Faucets	10.8	23.9%	0.1	2,500,000
   Clothes Washers	10.0	22.1%	15	375,000,000
   Showers	8.8	19.5%	2.8	70,000,000
   Toilets**	8.2	18.0%	10.3	257,500,000
   Leaks	4.0	8.8%	5.5	137,500,000
   Other Domestic Uses	1.6	3.4%	0	0
   Baths	1.2	2.7%	0	0
   Dishwashers	0.7	1.5%	0.3	7,500,000
   Total	45.3	99.9%	33.7	850,000,000

   
   *Assuming 25 million people, as estimated above.
   **With graywater recyling, toilet fresh water use can be reduced to nearly nothing.

   Note that we've only discussed single family households in California. If all U.S. households installed water-saving features, water use would decrease by 30 percent, saving an estimated 5.4 billion gallons per day. This would result in dollar-volume savings of $11.3 million per day or more than $4 billion per year.

   Source: Handbook of Water Use and Conservation, Amy Vickers

   Note that water waste is also energy waste, as we discussed last time (see "Energy Efficiency: Wasted Water Equals Wasted Energy", RGCC September 2007.)

   Another major source of indoor water waste is cooled water in hot water pipes which is allowed to run down the drain. Addressing this issue can save another 10,000 gallons of water per year per household, or about 115,028,700,000 gallons statewide, per year. (2006 census figures number 11,502,870 California households.) This technique also saves energy, which nicely segues into our next topic...

2. Energy Efficiency: Efficient Hot Water

   After space heating and cooling, domestic hot water is typically the next single largest energy use in the home, between 15 and 25 percent of the total energy use. It is commonly held that the water heater in an average home generates as much pollution per year as the operation of economy car. As such, it's worth some consideration and concern.

   Tankless vs Storage Water Heaters: Which is Best?

   It is commonly believed that tankless ("on demand") water heaters are more efficient for supplying domestic hot water (DHW) in all situations. While they do have some performance benefits there are drawbacks as well. It is important to understand where the application of a tankless water heater makes sense, and where it doesn't.

   Tankless water heaters save energy by eliminating standby losses (heat lost from a tank of hot water sitting waiting to be used) and by eliminating the standing pilot flame that many conventional gas water heaters have. Tankless gas heaters with a standing pilot actually waste more of this energy than a storage water heater does, since the pilot does help heat the water in a tank above it.

   On the down side, the burner in a tankless gas water heater is much larger than in a storage water heater, on par with the size of a home furnace. While a tankless gas water heater is running, it can achieve efficiencies on the order of 90% (as compared to 60% for a conventional gas storage heater), but start up and shut down are much less efficient. The trouble is that the majority of water use "events," or "draws," in the average home of of short duration and quantity, causing the tankless heater to start and stop frequently. In these cases, the tankless water heater's efficiency plummets.

   Tankless Water Heater Peformance vs Demand Source: Hot Water Delivery - Systems and Construction Practices, February 8, 2006

   When comparing electric tankless and storage water heaters, the efficiency is nearly identical (nearing 100%) so the differential is entirely due to standby loss. Electricity is a very "expensive" form of energy to use for heating, however, produced and delivered at roughly 20% efficiency.

   It typically takes between 5 and 15 seconds for the water through a tankless heater to reach temperature. With frequent starts and stops, this can cause "slugs" of cold water in the hot water pipes, increasing water waste.

   A study published in the January 2005 issue of PM Engineer discussed results of testing by Bradford White (a manufacturer of both tankless and storage water heaters) found the performance gap between the two systems narrower than commonly believed, and that greater energy savings are realized for tankless water heaters supplying smaller households, where the standby losses of a storage tank would be higher than in a household where most of a storage water heater tank's capacity is used daily.

   Greener Options?

   There are now high efficiency gas-fired storage water heaters available, such as the AO Smith Vertex, which provide 90% efficiency and storage. Another benefit of a storage tank is that it is necessary for, and compatible with, solar water heating. An increasing trend is a high efficiency combination boiler system, which provides both domestic hot water and water for space heating, either through hydronic floor heating, radiators, a hydronic air handler for forced air, or some combination thereof.

   AO Smith Vertex	Munchkin Boiler with SuperStor Ultra DHW Tank

   Note that it is important to insulate a storage water heater tank to reduce standby losses, as well as installing heat traps to eliminate thermosiphoning, the natural movement of hot water which is used by the solar water heater described above.

   Research continues, but it appears that there are benefits to both types of water heaters, and that they each have their appropriate applications. It is often noted that tankless water heaters are widespread in Europe and have been so for some time. Without entering the fray about European "piety" vs. American "gluttony," it is worth noting that tankless heaters appear to have an edge when daily hot water use is low. As daily hot water use increases, the impact of standby losses is reduced and the inefficiency of tankless water heaters for short bursts becomes more significant. Here's some more info on this on-going debate:

   EnergyIdeas Clearinghouse Q&A
   Straight Talk About “On-Demand” Tankless Water Heaters

   The Best Option: Solar

   The debate so far focused on fuel-burning water heaters. The option which trumps them all is solar water heating. The Los Angeles Air Quality Control Management District has gone as far to conclude that "next to car pooling, solar water heating is the most cost-effective way to reduce air pollution." Solar water heating is a mature technology, both cheaper and more efficient than solar electric generation (photovoltaic). We described a simple system above, and will explore solar water heating in greater detail in future issues. Additional discussion on solar's potential benefit for California can be found at Environment California's "Solar Water Heating: How California Can Reduce Its Dependence on Natural Gas."

   "Lost" Hot Water

   Regardless of the type of water heating system employed, a good deal of energy is lost through hot water which is never used - the water which stays in the pipes after hot water use, cools down, and "becomes" waste water. As we explained above, this can be about 10,000 gallons of water per year in the average household.

   What can be done?

   1. The easiest fix is to insulate the water supply pipes, both hot AND cold. This will reduce the cooling rate of water in the pipes, which will helps the water in the pipes stay warmer longer. Insulated cold pipes help because the water which arrives at the house at ground temperature is often warmer than the surrounding air (at least in Winter.) By preserving this heat, the home's water heater has less work to do. This can also help prevent pipes from freezing.

   2. Beyond pipe insulation, an on-demand hot water recirculating pump can be installed. This system is activated by a button or a motion sensor and pumps the cooled water in hot water pipes back into the water heater, drawing hot water in to replace it. When the water in the pipes reaches temperature, it turns off. This system saves water and saves energy, as the water returned to the water heater is often lukewarm - warmer than the cold water otherwise feeding the water heater.

      The Metlund D'MAND System

      Note that timer-based recirculation pumps do eliminate the water waste and deliver "instant hot water," but they increase energy use, as the hot water pipes are kept filled with hot water whenever the timer is running, so hot water is constantly cooling, whether it is used or not.

   3. The design and layout of the water supply pipes can do a good deal to conserve energy and water. Structured Plumbing systems incorporate on-demand recirculation valves, but also use a pipe layout design which reduces the residual hot water in pipes:

   A series of four articles by Gary Klein of the California Energy Commission goes into great detail about many of the aspects of domestic hot water generation and supply.

   Another useful study is the Rocky Mountain Institute Home Energy Brief #5: "Water Heating".

   Energy Down the Drain?

   Another neat idea is capturing the heat in waste water. As you might well imagine, the water going down the drain of a shower is far from cold. A Drainwater Heat Recovery (DHR) Device works by extracting heat from the waste water and feeding the warmed water back into the water heater or into the shower's cold source. These devices typically require a long vertical drop, however, making them best suited to second story bathrooms.

   

3. Indoor Air Quality: Direct Vent is Best

   A common practice in the past (which, unfortunately, still continues today) is/was to install gas burning appliances within the living space of a home which rely on the heat of the exhaust to escape from the indoor air (know as "gravity vented" appliances.) In older, very leaky homes, this was sometimes acceptable, but often not. In today's tighter, controlled-ventilation homes they are a potential "nightmare." In a home where the exhaust ventilation exceeds the fresh air supply (i.e. a large kitchen vent hood, bathroom fans, whole house fans, etc.) a situation know as "depressurization" can occur, where the house develops lower air pressure than outside. In this case, gravity exhaust vents can actually flow in reverse, bringing pollution from the furnace, water heater, etc., into the house - this is known as "back-drafting." As we mentioned above, an average water heater generates as much pollution as an economy car each year - who wants that in their home? Furthermore, these appliances consume oxygen as they burn fuel. In obtaining their "combustion air" from within the house, they are actually competing with the occupants for oxygen!!!

   What to do?

   So-called "direct-vent" or "sealed combustion" appliances, heaters and fireplaces address this concern by obtaining their combustion air and eliminating their exhaust outdoors. The entire combustion portion of the appliance is sealed from the indoors, so no back-drafting can occur and no indoor oxygen is consumed. In addition, direct vent appliances are generally more efficient than gravity vented versions.

   The California Air Resources Board has further information on these concerns in the publication "Combustion Pollutants and Your Health."

4. Liveable Communities: The Embodied Energy of Location

   Time was, the green building "ideal" was an alternative structure far out in the country, perhaps "off the grid," supplying it's own power. While there are aspects of this model that are still viewed as green, the energy consumed in traveling to and fro (and, by extension, the carbon emissions generated) can be significant.

   A feature from the September 2007 issue of the Environmental Building News, "Driving to Green Buildings: The Transportation Energy Intensity of Buildings," discusses the paradox of a the world's first LEED Platinum building - the Chesapeake Bay Foundation's Philip Merrill Environmental Center. While built with strict green standards, the new headquarters is located 10 miles away from the city center and the old headquarters location, to which many employees used to walk. Despite extensive remediation efforts for the transportation demands, the additional energy use from more employees driving to work may well exceed the energy savings realized by the greener building.

   While the transportation energy intensity of a workplace, with many commuters coming to and fro, is a good deal higher than that of a single home, this issue is still significant and worthy of consideration for residential buildings - especially when looking at groups of homes and design of communities. Trends over the past thirty years have shown a steady increase in automobile use. In the U.S., VMT (Vehicle Miles Travelled) per household has increased from 12,400 miles (20,000 km) per year in 1969 to 21,200 miles (34,000 km) per year in 2001, a 70% increase. During the same period, VMT for commuting to work increased from 4,180 miles to 5,720 miles (6,730 km to 9,200 km), or 37%. If we are concerned about global warming and oil dependence, we need to make a major change in how we plan, build, and organize communities.

   Some other facts worth noting:

   • In the most compact, densely populated places like Chicago, VMT can be as much as 90% less than in sprawling suburbs.
   • On a Btu per passenger-mile basis, buses actually use more energy per passenger mile than cars, assuming average occupancy of both, while all forms of rail use less and vanpools use a lot less. The number of passengers makes a huge difference in the energy intensity (Btu per passenger mile). For example, by increasing the assumed ridership of a transit bus to 40 people, the energy intensity drops to less than 1,000 Btu per passenger mile.
   • Hybrids and biodiesel-burning cars are generally better than conventional gasoline-powered cars, but even the lowest fuel-economy SUV carrying four carpool riders to work will use less energy and emit less pollution per passenger-mile than a hybrid Prius carrying only a driver.

   At Remodel Guidance, we feel that it's worthwhile to consider the impact of location and transportation in planning and/or choosing your home. There are always tradeoffs, and we would hesitate to call one specific approach "right" and another "wrong," but it is worth noting that infill and improvement of existing homes in a green way tends to reduce transportation energy intensity and reduce sprawl, as we discussed in the May edition (see "Liveable Communities: New Urbanism and Infill," RGCC May 2007.) We consider our work to improve and wisely expand existing housing stock important in providing "green" housing. Can we help you? Please feel free to contact us at info@remodelguidance.com or by telephone at (415) 258-4501.

   We are sorry if we appear the bearer of bad news, but we want to be "the bearer of important news." The good news is that many of these problems have accessible, affordable and pleasant solutions. Please stay tuned...

   4. About Remodel Guidance

   Remodel Guidance is a residential design and consulting firm based in Marin County, California. We specialize in "Remodeling and Construction Strategy" - helping clients develop the most attractive, cost-effective, efficient and healthiest projects possible. We're restoration and rehabilitation enthusiasts with expertise in modernizing older homes while preserving and enhancing their character. We are dedicated environmentalists - experienced with, trained in, and committed to Green Building practices and design. Our services run the gamut from project consulting and permit expediting to complete plan packages and construction supervision.

   5. Meet the Designer

   Graham Irwin has been working in the construction industry as a carpenter, general contractor and building designer since 1991. He relocated to the Bay area in 2001 and has built a successful design and consulting practice while restoring his own home, a 1922 California Bungalow. Dedicated to making the construction process accessible to the public, Graham teaches popular Community Extension classes on building permits, remodeling, construction and green building. He is an NCBDC Certified Professional Building Designer, a Professional Member of the American Institute of Building Design® and a licensed general contractor. A committed environmentalist, Graham is a member of Architects, Designers and Planners for Social Responsibility, The US Green Building Council and Build It Green, and is a Certified Green Building Professional.

   6. News & Upcoming Events

   1. Federal and State Solar Incentives - California to Offer Solar Thermal Rebates

      The federal "Energy Policy Act of 2005" instituted tax credits to encourage solar electric and solar thermal. The credits were originally due to expire in 2007, but have been extended to the end of 2008. The Act provides tax credits up to 30% ($2000 max.) for solar photovoltaic and solar thermal systems. An individual home may qualify for both, to a maximum total of $4000. More information and links to digital versions of the tax forms can be found here: DSIRE: Federal Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency

      Through the "California Solar Initiative," the State of California has been providing rebates for solar electric (photovoltaic) only, but a newly passed bill, "The Solar Water Heating and Efficiency Act of 2007 (AB 1470)," authored by Assemblymember Jared Huffman of Marin (we knew we liked it here! -ed.) will provide $250 million in rebates for California consumers who install solar thermal systems over the next ten years. This law was just recently passed, so details are yet to emerge, but it looks like solar is set to become even more cost-effective and that 2008 will be a good year to install!!! We'll continue to track these developments in future issues.

   2. Upcoming Classes

      In addition to private consulting, we offer public workshops. Here are the most immediate; stay tuned for additional offerings throughout the Bay Area and beyond.

      • Venue: City College of San Francisco Continuing Education, San Francisco

        Navigating the Remodeling Maze
        Learn the ropes of obtaining building permits before you complete your plans. This thorough exploration of the permit process and Q&A session will help you avoid unnecessary red tape and expenses by designing your project around established requirements. Whether you are contemplating a remodeling project, in the middle of one, or thinking of buying a fixer-upper, this class will save you money, time and heartache.
        Time and Date: Wednesday, March 12, 6:30-9:30 PM
        Place: Marina Middle School, Room TBD, 3500 Fillmore St @ Chestnut, San Francisco
        Fee: $55, $45 (If registered ONE WEEK before the class begins)

        Introduction to Green Building
        Learn about one of the most exciting and rapidly growing fields in construction today. This class discusses the theory, methods, materials and construction techiques of environmentally aware remodeling and construction. The instructor is a professional designer, general contractor and Certified Green Building Professional.
        Time and Date: Wednesday, April 2, 6:30-9:30 PM
        Place: Marina Middle School, Room TBD, 3500 Fillmore St @ Chestnut, San Francisco
        Fee: $55, $45 (If registered ONE WEEK before the class begins)

        Registration

        1. Online: click here
        2. Mail this form, fax it to 415-561-1849, or deliver it to:
           Fort Mason Art Campus
           Laguna & Marina Blvd - Bldg B
           San Francisco, CA 94123
           Phone: 415-561-1860
           Fax: 415-561-1849
           

        For futher information, contact The City College of San Francisco Continuing Education Program at 415 561-1860 or visit their website.

      • Venue: Tamalpais Union HSD Adult & Community Education, Marin County

        Navigating the Remodeling Maze
        Learn the ropes of obtaining building permits before you complete your plans. This thorough exploration of the permit process and Q&A session will help you avoid unnecessary red tape and expenses by designing your project around established requirements. Whether you are contemplating a remodeling project, in the middle of one, or thinking of buying a fixer-upper, this class will save you money, time and heartache.
        Time and Date: Tuesday, April 15, 6-9 PM
        Place: Redwood High School, 395 Doherty Drive, Larkspur
        Fee: TBD

        Introduction to Green Building
        Learn about one of the most exciting and rapidly growing fields in construction today. This class discusses the theory, methods, materials and construction techiques of environmentally aware remodeling and construction. The instructor is a professional designer, general contractor and Certified Green Building Professional.
        Time and Date: Tuesday, April 29, 6-9 PM
        Place: Redwood High School, 395 Doherty Drive, Larkspur
        Fee: TBD

        Adding A Second Unit
        Whether you own a house and wish to add a second unit, want to buy a house and add a unit or have a second unit you'd like to legalize, there have been big changes in state and local law that make it much easier to obtain the necessary permits. This three-hour workshop will guide you through the requirements of your community and answer questions specific to your project.
        Time and Date: Tuesday, May 6, 6-9 PM
        Place: Redwood High School, 395 Doherty Drive, Larkspur
        Fee: TBD

        Registration

        1. Online: click the title(s) of the course(s) you are interested in above, or visit the website..
        2. Telephone: Contact the Tamalpais Union High School District's Adult and Community Education Program at 415-945-3730 between 8 AM and noon, Monday through Thursday.
        3. Email: comed-mail@tamdistrict.org
        4. Fax: Fax a registration form to 415-945-3767.
        5. Mail: Mail a registration form to P.O. Box 605, Larkspur, CA 94977.
        6. In person registrations are accepted at 375 Doherty Drive, Larkspur, 8 AM to noon, Monday through Friday.
        7. Walk-in registrations are also accepted at the start of the class.

      • Venue: Santa Rosa Jr. College Community Education, Sonoma County

        Introduction to Green Building
        Learn about one of the most exciting and rapidly growing fields in construction today. This class discusses the theory, methods, materials and construction techiques of environmentally aware remodeling and construction. The instructor is a professional designer, general contractor and Certified Green Building Professional.
        Time and Date: Thursday, April 3, 7-10 PM
        Place: PC 180 Petaluma Village, Petaluma Campus
        Fee: TBD

        Adding A Second Unit
        Whether you own a house and wish to add a second unit, want to buy a house and add a unit or have a second unit you'd like to legalize, there have been big changes in state and local law that make it much easier to obtain the necessary permits. This three-hour workshop will guide you through the requirements of your community and answer questions specific to your project.
        Time and Date: Thursday, May 1, 7-10 PM
        Place: PC 180 Petaluma Village, Petaluma Campus
        Fee: TBD

        Registration

        1. Online: click the title(s) of the course(s) you are interested in above.
        2. Telephone: Call 707-527-4824, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Please have your Visa or MasterCard (no American Express or Discover) in hand and your completed registration form ready. (The system is voice-activated.)
        3. Mail: Mail a completed registration form or photocopy with a check (made payable to SRJC) or your Visa/MasterCard number, to Community Education Registration, 1501 Mendocino Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95401.
        4. Fax: Fax a completed registration form with Visa/MasterCard information to 707-527-4870.
        5. In Person: Register at the Community Education office, 1990 Armory Drive, corner of Armory Drive and Elliott Avenue, Santa Rosa campus, during business hours. Easy parking!
   7. In the Works Keep an eye out in upcoming issues for:
   • "My Atomic Green Home" - a Fairfax home gets a Mid-Century Modern Remodel with major green features.
   • "My Vintage Green Cottage" - Next steps in proving that "green" and "vintage" CAN go together.
   8. Contact Us For general questions or to learn more about our services, please feel free to contact us:
   Telephone: 415-258-4501
   Email: info@remodelguidance.com
   Web: www.remodelguidance.com  

    

   Remodel Guidance: Residential Design | Plans & Permits | Green Building | Period Architecture